CONTENTS:

• What's there.
  
  
• How to get there.
  
  
• The climbs by area:
  
  

  The Entrance (6 routes)	The Slab (4 routes)	The Franks (12 routes)
  The Showdown Wall (6 routes)	The Transition Zone (13 routes)	The Dihedral Wall (10 routes)
  Randy's Wall (14 routes)	The Far Side I (16 routes)	The Far Side II (10 routes)
  The Red Light District (8 routes)

  
  
• The tick list:
  
  

  Up to 5.8 (5 routes)	5.9 (8 routes)	5.10 (21 routes)
  5.11 (29 routes)	5.12 (17 routes)	5.13 (11 routes)
  5.14 (1 route)

  
  
  

WHAT'S THERE:

In brief: around 100 sports routes on limestone.

Palomas Peak (8,250ft) is a minor peak in the Sandia massif. As in the Sandia Mountains proper, the top layer of Palomas is limestone, forming in this case two separate cliff bands; the higher cliff band (at around 8,000ft) is the developed Palomas crag, although the lower cliff band is seeing some limited development. (This guide only covers the upper cliff band; the lower band has few routes, is exposed to rockfall from activity on the higher band, and features rock of much lower quality.) The limestone is of good quality, with very sharp, highly textured surface; taping up for cracks is mandatory and frequent resoling necessary. Be prepared for a lot of smearing and edging and for small holds. The crag has two flavors: one area at the south end is very steep and features hard (12s and 13s) overhanging climbs, while the rest is a mix of natural-pro cracks and bolted, nearly vertical slabs; the latter are the most characteristic feature of Palomas.

The cliff band varies from 30ft to 70ft, with most climbs in the 50-60ft range. All sports climbs (and several crack climbs) are equipped with lowering anchors (mostly two bolts and chains, but also welded coldshuts or rap hangers). All bolts are 3/8" steel; anchors use at least 3" bolts, while clips use at least 2.25" bolts. Some of the anchors are accessible from the top (and there are breaks in the band that will allow you to scramble up or down), but exercise extreme caution: there is no rim trail; the top of the cliff is a sloping shelf with loose dirt and gravel and many loose blocks of all sizes; and anchors are typically set a foot below the ill-defined rim. Thus, if you want to toprope a climb, it is best to find someone willing to lead it and set up a toprope for you. Remember that lowering anchors are just that -- they are not intended for use in toproping (the constant friction of the rope causes premature wear on the anchors): if you want to set up a toprope, use a pair of quickdraws on the anchors.

HOW TO GET THERE:

From Albuquerque, take I-40 east, exit at Tijeras (Exit 175) and head north on NM 14 through Cedar Crest; after about 6 miles, turn left onto the Sandia Crest road (NM 536); soon after passing the ski area base (about 9 miles after leaving NM 14), turn off right (at Balsam Glade picnic area) onto dirt road leading to Placitas; after about 2 miles, stop at left turn with 3 concrete barriers west of the burn area. (If you get to Las Huertas picnic ground or the Sandia Man Cave, you have gone too far down.) Drive time is 40-50 mins. From Santa Fe, you can take I-25 to Placitas, exit to NM 165 and drive 14 miles to the parking area (the last 5 miles on dirt), but it is faster to take NM 14 south to the junction with the Sandia Crest road and proceed as above. Parking is limited and often a severe problem on week-ends: there is room for 8--9 cars at the 3 concrete barriers if you park perpendicular to the barriers; about 40m down the road from the turn, there is room (sideways) for 4 more cars on the uphill side; note that rangers will ticket any car that impinges upon the roadway. PLEASE CARPOOL and PARK WELL! Take trail right by the barriers; follow it across the burn area and through the forest, on a mostly level course, to a dry creek bed; at the creek bed turn sharp left onto an ascending trail that takes you to the corner of a large clearing. The first turn on the left (sometimes barred), just before entering the clearing, puts you on the trail to the lower cliff band. The second turn on the left, just after entering the clearing and thus only 10 yards beyond the first turn, puts you on the trail to the upper cliff band. Allow about half an hour for the hike up with a full pack. Please stay on the trail: the native flora is easily damaged. From December till March, expect hazardous driving conditions on the dirt road (often only accessible from the Placitas side), possibly deep snow on the trail (bring mountaineering boots or snowshoes), and cold temperatures, although the rock dries up quickly and stays warm in the sun.

The cliff band as seen from the road; click on the image to get a large annotated version

More bolted routes can be found by Sandia Man Cave (a bit farther down the dirt road from the Palomas parking area). The front side of the Sandias has some bolted routes; about 7 miles south of Tijeras on NM14 is Big Block crag, with a few good bolted lines. Farther south are New Canyon (30 miles south on NM14 in the Manzanos), Socorro's Box (60 miles on I25), and Datil (2.5 hrs drive); to the north are Cochiti Mesa/Cacti Cliffs (1 hr drive), the crags of White Rock and Los Alamos (2 hrs), Las Conchas in the Jemez Mountains (2 hrs), and El Rito between Espanola and Abiqiu (2.5 hrs). Together, these areas offer nearly 500 bolted sports routes, with limestone, basalt, welded tuff, granite, and quartz cobbles, all within a day's drive from Albuquerque.

THE CLIMBS:

Climbs are listed south to north as encountered on the crag trail. (Several crack climbs with natural gear are not listed here.) My rating scale is a follows:

Both quality and difficulty ratings are based on input from a group of about 15 people. When the difficulty is height-dependent, I have used a slash mark to indicate the fact; in all but one case, the higher difficulty goes for the shorter climber (the exception is Pretzel Logic, which is harder for taller climbers). Ratings are consistent with other areas in central New Mexico, but visitors often find the delicate balance and precise footwork challenging. All ratings for face climbs assume that any adjoining cracks are off limits.

I would very much appreciate feedback on ratings and grades: send email to moret@cs.unm.edu.

First ascentionists are identified by initials:

Many thanks go to all these people, but most of all to Bryan Pletta and Mark Thomas, who put up nearly a third of the 100-odd climbs listed below and who are always willing to take time to help other climbers.

The crag has two flavors: one area at the south end is very steep and features hard (12s and 13s) overhanging climbs, while the rest is a mix of natural-pro cracks and bolted nearly-vertical slabs; the latter are perhaps the most characteristic feature of Palomas.

The Entrance:

You may miss this climb the first time: it is about 25 meters before the trail levels out along the cliff band, in an alcove slightly above the trail itself.

2

Double Ds (Mark Doughty/Dave Anderson): 5.11d; 4 bolts, anchors; a long boulder problem with a fingery crux; many drilled holds

about 25 meters farther north:

The following five climbs are located just as the trail levels out along the cliff, with Entrance Exam immediately after the turn to the right. All are on vertical to slightly overhanging rock, before the seriously steep Slab Wall.

3

Entrance Exam (BP/MT): 5.10c; 6 bolts, rap hanger anchors; pleasant to 4th bolt, then easy moves on hollow-sounding rock: beware of dislodging some of the junk -- ask your belayer to step around

5

Sidewinder (BP/MT): 5.12b; 9 bolts, anchors; starts next to Entrance Exam and moves straight up, passing just right of the large cave; one of the longest routes at the crag, with a gentle, but continuous overhang

5

Nature of the Beast (LH/JT): 5.12a; 8 bolts, anchors; left of the large cave with old raptor nest; hard start, easier middle, somewhat pumpy top, with short runout to the anchors that gets easier as you go

4

Drop in the Ocean (LR): 5.11c/d; 8 bolts, anchors; jam through the first 4 bolts (optional #2 Camalot below the 1st bolt to protect on the choss) to a no-hands rest in a scoop, then nice moves to a good stance at the 8th bolt; escape left to anchors placed at top of crack; direct finish to direct anchors has much harder moves and is runout, 5.12+

4

Vertical Nothing (LH/MT): 5.12b; 8 bolts, anchors; follows a seam in which sits an old dead stump to the lip, then works diagonally up and left to the top, passing above the top of the Slab

The Slab Wall:

Easily identified, this is a seriously overhanging (at least 120 degrees) smooth slab; no easy climbs on this part of the wall! Snake Dance is one of only five routes at that grade in NM; others are in Socorro (Pimp Daddy (TF), which has a very short crux), Datil (Red Queen, also with a very short crux, and Child of Light (TF), although both have been downgraded to 13c/d), Los Alamos (Honkey Serial Killer at The Dungeon, again very short), and Sitting Bull Falls (Kootenai Cruiser (CG)). Palomas has an even harder climb, Sick Man (on The Franks, for which see below), but it is basically a boulder problem with three heinous moves, whereas Snake Dance is sustained throughout.

4

Fall from Grace (TF/LR): 5.13b/c; 6 bolts, anchors, at the front edge of the \emph{Slab}; excellent moves on the chipped wall

The Franks:

Named for its resemblance to the famed Frankenjura limestone, this area has a severe bulges for a few feet then continues vertically; the first few feet overhang by as much as 150 degrees, so routes are composed of a short, often very hard, boulder problem followed by a much easier vertical section (which may be absent in the hardest routes, making them very short). The last two routes, Monkey Man and Funkie Junkie, are exceptions: they stand beyond the end of the overhanging section.

3

Sick Man (TF): 5.14b; 4 bolts, anchors; the crux is just a few moves to overcome the bulge (V12), involving tiny sharp holds and long dynamic moves

-

Wooden Jesus (project): 5.14?; 6 bolts, anchors

2

Love Hate Love (TF): 5.12d; 4 bolts, anchors

2

Junkhead (LN/JT): 5.12a; 3 bolts (1st one chopped), hangers without chains or other means of rappel at anchors; small pockets

-

new route

4

Dark Dreams (LH/JT): 5.12b; 5 bolts, anchors; along an attractive pink streak; low crux to easier climbing above

3

Entertaining Mike Tyson (bolted by LH, chipped pocket of unknown origin, FA by DP): 5.13b; 5 bolts, anchors; short climb through overlap

1

Crash Test Dummy (LH/JT): 5.11d; 4 bolts, anchors; along a black streak with good side pockets; a mix of jamming and creative positioning; very painful jams: tape up---or better, avoid it!

-

Butthead (project): 4 bolts, anchors of Beavis, loose hold

2

Beavis (LH/JT): 5.13a; 5 bolts, anchors; bulging thin cracks

-

project (Richard Foust/Eric Robinson): 5.13?; 4 bolts, chain anchors; starts at the end of the overhang, then moves right on the face and straight up to the anchors

4

Monkey Man (LH): 5.12b; 7 bolts (1st bolt chopped), chain anchors; beyond the severe overhang and taller than most climbs on the Franks; the first crux is moving past the rounded bulge at the third bolt, while the true crux is near the top

-

abandoned project; has 3 bolts above a 5ft roof

3

Funky Junkie (BP/MT): 5.11a/b; 6 bolts, chain anchors; fun and varied, but not consistent: sidepull, fingerlock (crux), undercling, then huge ledge and easy face
 
The Author on Funky Junkie

about 60 meters farther north:

The Showdown Wall:

Except for Precious, which is an easy version of routes on The Franks, these climbs are vertical or less than vertical.

5

Gunslinger (BP/MT): 5.11d; 5 bolts, anchors; balancy and powerful lieback on the intermittent crack on right side of buttress shared with Sidekick; crux is moving from the 1st to the 2nd bolt (don't hurry to clip it!) -- tendency to barndoor due to poor feet

Gunslinger

3

Sidekick (BP/MT): 5.10c/d; 5 bolts, anchors (1.5 friend optional); left-trending line on left of buttress; groundfall potential at 2nd bolt, so use the 1.5 friend before it; hardest move is the first, to get off the ground; moving past the 2nd bolt is harder for shorter climbers

4

Velcro Bootie (David MacInnis/MT): 5.11a; 5 bolts, chain anchors; look for a raw place in the rock at the lip, followed by a particularly rough-surfaced slab; the crux is at the bulge at the 3rd bolt (5.10c if you go way left); the rest is 5.10 with a neat heelhook at the start; poorly placed 3rd bolt (too far left) mars an otherwise fun line
  
Jane Tennessen on the start of Velcro Bootie

2

Precious (LH/JT): 5.11b/c; 6 bolts, anchors; a few steep 5.11 moves on the overhang (tape up and drop your knees), then eases to 5.9 crack climbing; easier for taller climbers; a lot of pain at the start for not much afterwards

1

Sweet Jane (EG): 5.12b; 7 bolts, anchors; nothing sweet here; the bouldery crux is getting to the 1st bolt, placed very high above a very bad landing; the climb peters out after the 2nd bolt

about 15 meters farther north, a good beginner climb:

3

unnamed: 5.7; gear, no anchors; a right-facing flake offering excellent pro; ends at a good tree anchor next to a large boulder (tree has a sling); just after a pronounced V-shaped crack with a large hole at the base and just before a downstep in the trail

about 40 meters farther north:

The Transition Zone:

5

Stick to Stucco (DE/SH/BM): 5.10c/d; 5 bolts, chain anchors; 15 ft to the right of Wavy Gravy, another (but narrower) grey stucco slab with a bulging start, passing between two small bushes higher up; mostly smearing and body positioning, sustained throughout, with a couple of reachy moves around the 3rd bolt; one of the best smearing routes at Palomas

4

Wavy Gravy (BP/MT): 5.8; 5 bolts, coldshut anchors; a scooped slab with a grey stucco look; easier to the right (5.7 crack), but best (though 5.10) to the left of the bolt line over the smooth dome; a warm-up favourite

3

Tutti Frutti (DE/BM/MT): 5.11b/c; 5 bolts, rap ring with chain backup anchor; at the far left side of the Wavy Gravy slab, move up the choss to a concave face at the bulge; above the bulge, easy moves to the 5th bolt, then a slight overhang and rounded bulge to the anchors; crux is moving from the 2nd to the 3rd clip
   
Deborah Evans moving through the crux of Tutti Frutti

2

unnamed crack immediately left of Tutti Frutti: 5.9, gear and some bolts, plus anchors, of Tutti Frutti

5

Rode Hard (LH/BP/MT): 5.11c; 8 bolts, coldshut anchors; bulging front of buttress (several small roofs) and left face; sustained to the 7th bolt; reachy moves above the 3rd bolt and a neat move above the 4th, then becomes more technical and less strenuous; a test of stamina; the best roof climb at Palomas

Deborah Evans high on Rode Hard

4

Put up Wet (LH/BP/MT): 5.11d; 1 low and 2 high bolts plus gear, using the anchors of Rode Hard; don't pull on big loose block above 3rd bolt; top is much easier, but run out from 3rd bolt to anchors, so cross over to last bolt of Rode Hard; great and varied route (face, crack, lieback, slab) BUT: protection is minimal (TCUs or nuts in the fingercrack, then runout to 2nd bolt on hard ground) -- so first toprope it by climbing Rode Hard.

3

Big Guns in Cowtown (FA Chris Kessler): 5.9, gear and anchors of Pocket Princess

4

Pocket Princess (BM/Mark Ondrias): 5.11a; 5 bolts, chain anchors; bulge to the right of Have Slab..., with an arching seam and a diagonal line of pockets; crux is moving past 2nd bolt; nice move at 5th bolt; with crack on the right, rating drops to 5.9; the best pocket climb at Palomas; put up in memory of Jane Tennessen on the second anniversary of her death

4

Have Slab Will Travel (BP/MT): 5.10b; 5 bolts, chain anchors; scooped, grey stucco slab just 10 feet above the trail; mostly stemming with some nice moves; the crux is pulling over the small bulge at the 2nd bolt    
Jane Tennessen, Deborah Evans, on Have Slab...

3

Support your Local Bolter (BP/MT): 5.11b; 4 bolts and shares anchors with Have Slab ...; thin slab; fingery crux is moving above the bulge from the 2nd to the 3rd bolt; great kneelock move at the 3rd bolt

2

Trigger Happy: 5.9; gear and shares anchors with the previous two; the obvious crack adjoining ...Local Bolter on the left

3

Factory Direct (EG): 5.10c; 5 bolts, chain anchors; slab with black markings on upper half (not lichen, but thin and sharp rock); mostly big crimpers (avoid open grips if you value your skin!), with some devious stemming at the bulge; crux is the start

4

Middleman (DE/BM/Mark Ondrias): 5.11b; 4 bolts and shares anchors of Factory Direct; the direct line to the anchors; a fun roof problem, then up along the cleft; you may want to stick-clip the first bolt

about 20 meters farther north:

The Dihedral Wall:

The first 5 climbs are not dihedrals, but the two dihedrals, Green Eggs and Ham and Baba Louie, are the obvious features of the wall.

2

unnamed: 5.9+ seam with 1 low bolt, chain anchors; requires gear; thin and rather dirty seam with much easier upper half

4

Black Panther (bolted by EG, FA unknown): 5.12c/d; 7 bolts, chain anchors; near-vertical thin slab; the crux (especially for shorter climbers) is the left traverse at the 4th bolt, but the whole climb is sustained, delicate, and devious; one (crucial, alas) chipped hold by the 6th bolt and excessive height dependence mar what is otherwise a great route

4

Smoked Salmon (LR): 5.10a/b; gear; crack arching left to rejoin:

3

Floating World (LR): 5.11c; gear (had 5 bolts, all chopped); intermittent seam, straight up; not good for fat fingers -- there will be no place left for the gear!

2

Tina's Rig (bolted by TF, FA by LH): 5.12b; 7 bolts, anchors; three roofs, two at the bottom and one at the top; the crux is at the 2nd roof; the 1st roof requires either a long reach or a strenuous pull on a drilled one-finger pocket; another drilled pocket near the top

5

Green Eggs and Ham (LR): 5.10c; 6 bolts, chain anchors; a strikingly beautiful dihedral, nearly perfect from bottom to top; can be pure stemming or almost pure face, with any mix in-between; all clips are on the right

5

Quickdraw McGraw (BP/MT): 5.11b/c; 5 bolts, chain anchors; the arête left of Green Eggs ...; wonderful, balancy, and rather tricky moves; the best arête climb at Palomas; the last clip is very height-dependent due to poor footholds

4

Baba Louie (BP/MT): 5.10d; 5 bolts, rap hanger anchors (or pro and the top 2 bolts: the first three bolts are really to protect Lucky Boy and are fairly far left of the natural dihedral route); the other obvious dihedral; less regular than Green Eggs ... and more difficult; crux is moving past the small bulge to the left of the large overhang  
Jane Tennessen, the Author on Baba Louie

5

Lucky Boy (EG/Bill Penner): 5.11c; 5 bolts, chain anchors; shares first 3 bolts with Baba Louie, but moves on the face, with no use of the large right-hand crack and block; from the 3rd bolt, a delicate traverse left, then up to a thin arching lieback crack; sustained from the traverse to the anchors

From left to right: Lucky Boy, Baba Louie, Quickdraw McGraw, and Green Eggs and Ham

4

Classic Jam Crack: 5.9; gear, coldshut anchors; excellent, very regular crack; mostly 5.8 with harder start

about 30 meters farther north:

A so far unexploited section of cliff, with several possible routes in the 5.11-5.12 range.

about 10 meters farther north, after a short rise on the trail:

Randy's Wall:

All of these climbs are immediately next to each other.

3

Floating on Moonbeams (DE/BM/Mark Ondrias): 5.9+; 4 bolts, rap hanger anchors; an easy dihedral, with a harder start (overcome the bulge on stem) and a slightly tricky finish; in memory of T. Sean Elicker

4

Walking on Sunshine (DE/BM/Mark Ondrias): 5.11b; 4 bolts, chain anchors; near vertical slab, with cruxes between 2nd and 3rd and between 4th and anchors (sunshine is about all you get for feet...); one of the best smearing climbs here; in memory of T. Sean Elicker

4

Calamity Jane (SH/BM): 5.11b/c/d; 5 bolts, chain anchors; vertical slab to 4th bolt, then easier top; all clips are on the left; crux is traversing left at 2nd bolt to undercling and moving up from it; rating (11b if you are at least 5'8", 11d if you are less than 5'5") assumes no use of left-hand crack; in memory of Jane Tennessen  
Calamity Jane, Debi on the crux move

5

In the Limelight (RE): 5.11d; 5 bolts, coldshut anchors; left-trending slab ramp; a beautiful line; easy to 2nd bolt, then very thin and sustained to 5th bolt; cruxes are reaching the 3rd bolt (slippery lieback) and then the 4th bolt (balancy no-hand mantel); one of the best smearing climbs at Palomas

5

Behind the Scenes (Paul Davidson/Eric Rhichard): 5.11d; 5 bolts and shares anchors of Limelight; straight to the anchors, up on some choss, then over a rounded blank slab; easy to the 3rd bolt, then the crux requires a mantel off a small crimp low on the left and a poor pinch up on the right, with only smearing for feet; after mantel, returns to easy 11 moves; stays in the shade all day

3

unnamed thin crack, just right of Monkey See (FA Karl Kiser): 5.9-; gear, move left to anchors of Monkey See

4

Monkey See (RE): 5.11d; 5 bolts, chain anchors; a series of strenuous laybacks on rounded edges and some good cracks

1

Monkey Do (RE): 5.12a; 5 bolts and shares anchors of Monkey See, as well as first 2 bolts; marginally harder, but not nearly as good

4

Stemulation (BP/MT): 5.11b/c/d; 6 bolts, rap hanger anchors; small overhang, easy stemming, then lieback using big edges on the right before returning to stem---getting back on stem is the crux; traverse left above the 4th bolt to rejoin the 5th bolt of Pretzel Logic; then easy moves to the top; get to the anchors by moving left and up; very reachy and thus quite height-dependent
 
Deborah Evans on the first moves of Stemulation

5

Pretzel Logic (BP/MT): 5.11b/c (slightly harder for tall people); 6 bolts; shares last 2 bolts and anchors with Stemulation; the best stemming climb at Palomas; the crux is moving past the 3rd bolt (stay on stem!) and clipping the 4th; then stay on stem until your feet are almost level with the 4th bolt; somewhat painful start

3

unnamed thin crack, just right of Kyle's Crack (FA John Kear): 5.9; gear, no anchors

4

Kyle's Crack: 5.7; gear, chain anchors; easy crack with very solid (largish) pro
 
Bruce placing the first two pieces on Kyle's Crack

1

unnamed: 5.9; 3 bolts + gear (behind hollow flake), no anchors; slabby left-trending ramp

about 25 meters farther north:

3

Fat Lips, Thin Smile (SH/BM): 5.12c; 4 bolts, rap hanger anchors; short, slightly overhanging north face with three successive bulges offering only thin underclings and poor crimpers; sustained 12- climbing from the 1st to the 4th bolt, with easy top; getting to the first bolt without using the left-hand ramp is extremely hard with less than a 6ft reach
Fat Lip, Thin Smile

about 25 meters farther north:

The Far Side I:

Locate the first climb, R.I.P., after the trail has descended again to allow sufficient height, on a west-facing slab next to a deep crack.

4

R.I.P. (RE): 5.12a; 6 bolts, chain anchors; tenuous slab on bottom half and arête on top half; the crux is the setup on the arête (a number of positive edges broke, making the arête harder than the original 5.12a)

4

variant: 5.11d (must be top-roped for now); go straight up on the second half, on another thin (though easier) slab; left crack is off; needs one bolt in the middle of the top face to make it easier to lead, using the first 5 bolts and anchors of R.I.P.

5

Jane's Addiction (SH/BM): 5.12a; 5 bolts, rap hanger anchors; across from R.I.P., a south face with overhanging start to a thin and balancy slab top; great move at the lip where you must quickly shift your hand from a sidepull to an undercling and move to a mantel; rating assumes no use of adjoining cracks and faces; in memory of Jane Tennessen, addicted to pretty rock faces      
Jane's Addiction; Debi belaying the author; the author on the top half

4

Serpentine (BM/Krister Swenson): 5.11b; 5 bolts, cold shut anchors (anchors put up by MT/BP); up the dihedral past the choss, then a delicate traverse right to the arete, easy arete to the 4th bolt, a second crux on the now rather blank arete to reach a series of good holds underneath the small ``nose", then back to the face for an easy finish.

-

unnamed crack (FA John Kear): 5.9; gear, anchors of Serpentine; the dihedral crack between R.I.P. and Midnight Rider

4

Surfer Boy and the Shrimp (DE/BM): 5.11d; 6 bolts, cold shut anchors, on the face to the right of Midnight Rider; a face climb, but the left arete (the edge of the big crack) is used for hands; much easier (5.10) after the 4th bolt, but requires creative positioning and good crimping strength (not to mention a strong left arm) to power through the first 4 bolts; put up in memory of Jane Tennessen on the third anniversary of her death.
Note: can be climbed without using the left arete at all, at about 5.12b.

5

Midnight Rider (EG/MT): 5.11c; 5 bolts, chain anchors; a thin slab face between two cracks; technical and balancy, with no real rest, all on crimpers; crux is reaching the 3rd bolt on a left-leg mantel from a small right-hand crimper; the best edging climb at Palomas
 
The Author on Midnight Rider

3

the crack to the left of Midnight Rider: 5.10-, (large) gear and uses the anchors of Midnight Rider

4

Dreamer Deceiver (CG/PM): 5.12d/13a/b; 6 bolts, chain anchors; the face to the left of Midnight Rider; overhung start; mostly blank slab with small seam and bulge at the top; very reachy sideways moves, many at full arm stretch; sustained and pumpy

4

Curious George (EG/MT): 5.10d; 5 bolts, chain anchors; powerful right-facing lieback on big holds with one rest; crux is the start (preclip the 1st bolt, downclimb, then start on the left, to use the poor undercling); toprope not advisable because the rope gets pinched in the crack towards the top

3

Tigers on Vaseline(SH/BM): 5.13+; 5 bolts, chain anchors (easy 5.11 run out between the last bolt and the anchors); the west face immediately left of Curious George; very thin, reachy, and powerful; the crux is bridging the gap from the last good undercling to the seam on the upper face; very height-dependent -- probably impossible with less than a 6ft reach

4

Rambling Man (BP/MT): 5.10c/d; 5 bolts, chain anchors; lower part is mostly stem, with some huge sidepulls; roof has reachy or tricky (if you are less than 5'5") moves; upper part is interesting slab climbing (huge death block is gone!)

3

Crooked Cross (CG): 5.12b/c; 6 bolts, chain anchors; another west-facing slab, with a crack running through the top half; the powerful and technical crux is from the 2nd to the 3rd bolt; the rest is 5.11

Some 10 meters farther north:

-

unnamed: 5.10a; behind young trees, a west face with two crack systems separated by 6 feet and protected at the end of the first crack by a pin and between the two by a bolt; gear in the cracks

1

unnamed: 5.10b; a short southeast-facing slab with 3 bolts to a BFT; hard start, then easy moves

The path then descends sharply, with a bottleneck between the rock face and a large tree. About 10 meters farther north, you reach the area of choice for intermediate climbers, with several excellent, long, moderate 9s and 10s. Easily recognizable by the 15ft high band of very chossy rock at the bottom of the climbs. Be careful in that zone: small pieces break easily and regularly, especially after a rain.

The Far Side II:

3

Chess (RE): 5.10b/c; 7 bolts, fixed nut, triple anchors (chains and rappel ring); less varied than its twin below; the crux is a reachy delicate move to fixed nut after 5th bolt, much harder for shorter climbers

5

Checkers (RE): 5.10b; 7 bolts, fixed nut, triple anchors, sharing the first 2 bolts, the nut, the last 2 bolts, and the anchors with Chess; the crux is pulling over the lip at the 3rd bolt; enjoyable traverse move from the 5th bolt to the fixed nut    
Deborah Evans on Checkers

5

Patchwork (RE): 5.10b; 9 bolts, triple anchors (chains and rappel ring); a fun and varied face climb; 9th bolt sometimes has a quicklock, but go to the top and enjoy these last moves (you can use the left-hand crack to reach the anchors, but the pendulum fall would be bad; so move straight up; the hard part of these last moves is pulling until your right foot rests on the bottom corner next to the bolt and so is well protected); crux is reaching 2nd bolt on the choss

5

Lonesome Dove (BP/MT): 5.9+; 7 bolts, chain anchors; the grade is sustained, with good exposure (and an easy runout) on the arête; a popular warm-up
   
Jane Tennessen on Lonesome Dove

4

Knee Jerk Reaction (BP/MT): 5.11c; 8 bolts, chain anchors; about 10 meters north of the Dove, goes through a bulge around a large jutting block; 1st bolt is very low (at nose level); a pump fest with a technical crux between the 4th and 5th bolt, just below the jutting block; much easier (5.10) from the 6th bolt on; similar in many ways to Rode Hard

5

Tiger by the Tail (BP/MT): 5.9+; 6 bolts, chain anchors; this climb is about 20 meters north of the Dove, by a large roof; it ascends the easy dihedral, then moves right to the short upper face; easier than it looks

3

Pussy Whipped (BP/MT): 5.8+; 5 bolts, chain anchors, sharing the first 4 bolts of Tiger ... and moving left from there to a lower set of anchors; a popular warm-up

-

project (CG/PM): 5.12?; high bolts, chain anchors; crack through roof just north of Tiger ...; unfinished due to problems with protection on choss at bottom

4

Fine Line (LH/BP/MT): 5.12a; 6 bolts (or gear), anchors; seam right of Pizza Slab, shares anchors of Main Line; hard moves (rounded lieback) above 2nd bolt; angles left at top to rejoin Main Line

4

Main Line (BP/MT): 5.9; gear/anchors; crack/dihedral by the Pizza Slab

Pizza Slab (large leaning slab), then:

5

Blonde Ambition (DE/BM): 5.11c; 6 bolts, rap ring anchor with chain backup; thin intermittent crack and seam on otherwise blank vertical face immediately north of the Pizza Slab; few footholds from 1st to 6th bolt; crux is moving past 2nd bolt on lieback with poor feet; assumes no use of right-hand crack at the first 3 bolts, otherwise rating drops to 11a; put up in memory of Jane Tennessen on the first anniversary of her death   
Deborah Evans on Blonde Ambition

about 10 meters north:

Red Light District:

3

Circle K (EG): 5.10d; 4 bolts, chain anchors; find this climb about 30 meters north of the Pizza Slab, on a sharp downturn of the trail; a short, right-facing lieback crack ends at the 3rd bolt, leading to a delicate crux at the 4th bolt; preclip the 1st bolt, out of reach on the natural line
  
The Author, Deborah Evans on Circle K

3

X File (EG): 5.10b; 4 bolts, chain anchors; next to Circle K, a short, left-facing, lieback crack on huge edges; all clips are right-hand clips; the last clip and the anchors are to the right of the line; can easily be led on gear at the same grade

2

The Baltzenator (MT/Dave Baltz): 5.11b; gear, chain anchors; the obvious crack up the wall and through a large roof; easy and solid gear to the roof, but requires very long reach at the roof to place good (large) pro above the lip
  
Steve Hofmeyr on The Baltzenator

small leaning slab, then:

3

People Mover (EG): 5.6; 4 bolts, chain anchors; an easy first lead, short, with a 5.4 runout to the anchors

2

Pony Ride (EG): 5.10a; 4 bolts, chain anchors; somewhat contrived, with cruxes at the start and at the 4th bolt

3

Radio Flyer (EG, 1st ascent by DP): 5.13a; 4 bolts, chain anchors; a very thin slab, rounding off gently; smears, ill-defined ripples, and tenuous underclings

4

In Pain for Jane (SH/BM): 5.12b/d; 4 bolts, coldshut anchors; immediately before the corner, a thin face with a bulge and much easier top; just 8 ft of hard climbing, but very balancy and very sequential, on tiny painful holds and toe-tips; for climbers less than 5'7", the grade goes up quite a bit, since there are no intermediate hand (or foot) holds; in memory of Jane Tennessen

4

WYSIWYG (SH/BM/MT): 5.10d; 4 bolts, coldshut anchors; around the corner, facing northwest, a face with a dark waterstain; gently overhanging and thus quite strenuous, especially at the start
WYSIWYG

THE TICK LIST:

• 5.6
  • Red Light District:
    People Mover: 4 bolts, chain anchors
• 5.7
  • Showdown Wall:
    unnamed crack: gear/BFT, left flake
  • Randy's Wall:
    Kyle's Crack: gear/chain anchors
• 5.8
  • Transition Zone:
    Wavy Gravy: 5 bolts, chain anchors
  • Far Side:
    Pussy Whipped: 5 bolts, chain anchors
• 5.9
  • Transition Zone:
    unnamed crack immediately left of Tutti Frutti: gear and shares anchors with Tutti Frutti
    Trigger Happy: gear and shares anchors with Have Slab...
  • Dihedral Wall:
    Classic Jam Crack: natural gear crack, anchors
    unnamed: 3 bolts + gear, no anchors; slabby left-trending ramp
  • Randy's Wall:
    Floating on Moonbeams: 4 bolts, rap hanger anchors
    
  • Far Side:
    Lonesome Dove: 7 bolts, chain anchors
    Tiger by the Tail: 6 bolts, chain anchors
    Main Line: gear/chain anchors
• 5.10a
  • Far Side:
    unnamed: behind young trees, a west face with two crack systems, bolt & pin
  • Red Light District:
    Pony Ride: 4 bolts, chain anchors; somewhat contrived
• 5.10b
  • Transition Zone:
    Have Slab Will Travel: 5 bolts, chain anchors
  • Far Side:
    unnamed; a short southeast-facing slab with 3 bolts to a BFT
    Chess: 7 bolts, fixed nut, triple anchors
    Checkers: 7 bolts, fixed nut, triple anchors
    Patchwork: 9 bolts, triple anchors
  • Red Light District:
    X File: 4 bolts, chain anchors
• 5.10c
  • Entrance Area:
    Entrance Exam: 6 bolts, rap hanger anchors
  • Showdown Wall:
    Sidekick: 5 bolts, anchors (1.5 friend optional)
  • Transition Zone:
    Stick to Stucco: 5 bolts, chain anchors; narrow grey stucco slab
    Factory Direct: 5 bolts, chain anchors; slab with black markings
  • Dihedral Wall:
    unnamed: seam with 1 bolts, anchors; requires gear; dirty
    Smoked Salmon: gear; good crack
    Green Eggs and Ham: 6 bolts, chain anchors
  • Far Side:
    unnamed: gear, anchors: the crack to the left of Midnight Rider
    Rambling Man: 5 bolts, chain anchors
• 5.10d
  • Dihedral Wall:
    Baba Louie: 5 bolts, rap hanger anchors
  • Far Side:
    Curious George: 5 bolts, chain anchors
  • Red Light District:
    Circle K: 4 bolts, chain anchors
    WYSIWYG: 4 bolts, coldshut anchors
• 5.11a
  • Showdown Wall:
    Velcro Bootie: 5 bolts, chain anchors
  • Transition Zone:
    Put up Wet: 3 bolts & 2 TCUs, with anchors of Rode Hard
    Pocket Princess: 5 bolts, chain anchors
• 5.11b
  • The Franks:
    Funky Junkie: 6 bolts, chain anchors
  • Showdown Wall:
    Precious: 6 bolts, anchors
  • Transition Zone:
    Tutti Frutti: 5 bolts, rap ring anchors
    Support your Local Bolter: 4 bolts, anchors
    Middleman: 4 bolts, anchors
  • Dihedral Wall:
    Quickdraw McGraw: 5 bolts, chain anchors
  • Randy's Wall:
    Walking on Sunshine: 4 bolts, chain anchors
    Calamity Jane: 5 bolts, chain anchors
    Stemulation: 5 bolts, chain anchors
    Pretzel Logic: 6 bolts, chain anchors
  • Far Side:
    Serpentine: 5 bolts, cold shut anchors
  • Red Light District:
    The Baltzenator: gear, chain anchors
• 5.11c
  • Transition Zone:
    Rode Hard: 8 bolts, chain anchors
  • Dihedral Wall:
    Floating World: gear; rejoins Smoked Salmon
    Lucky Boy: 5 bolts, chain anchors
  • Far Side:
    Midnight Rider: 5 bolts, chain anchors
    Knee Jerk Reaction: 7 bolts, chain anchors
    Blonde Ambition: 6 bolts, anchors
• 5.11d
  • Entrance Area:
    Double Ds: 4 bolts, anchors
    Drop in the Ocean: 8 bolts, anchors
  • The Franks:
    Crash Test Dummy: 3 bolts, anchors
  • Showdown Wall:
    Gunslinger: 5 bolts, anchors
  • Randy's Wall:
    In the Limelight: 5 bolts, chain anchors
    Behind the Scenes: 5 bolts, chain anchors
    Monkey See: 5 bolts, chain anchors
  • Far Side:
    Surf Boy and the Shrimp: 6 bolts, coldshut anchors
• 5.12a
  • Entrance Area:
    Nature of the Beast: 8 bolts, anchors
  • The Franks:
    Junkhead: 4 bolts, anchors
    
  • Randy's Wall:
    Monkey Do: 5 bolts, chain anchors
  • Far Side:
    R.I.P.: 6 bolts, chain anchors
    Jane's Addiction: 5 bolts, rap hanger anchors
    Fine Line: gear or 6 bolts, chain anchors
• 5.12b
  • Entrance Area:
    Sidewinder: 9 bolts, anchors
    Vertical Nothing: 8 bolts, anchors
    
  • The Franks:
    Dark Dreams: 6 bolts, anchors
    Monkey Man: 6 bolts, chain anchors;
  • Showdown Wall:
    Sweet Jane: 7 bolts, anchors
  • Dihedral Wall:
    Tina's Rig: 7 bolts, chain anchors
  • Far Side:
    Crooked Cross: 6 bolts, chain anchors
  • Red Light District:
    In Pain for Jane: 4 bolts, coldshut anchors
• 5.12c
  • The Franks:
    Love Hate Love: 4 bolts, chain anchors
  • Dihedral Wall:
    Black Panther: 7 bolts, chain anchors
  • Randy's Wall:
    Fat Lips, Thin Smile: 4 bolts, rap hanger anchors
• 5.12d
  • Far Side:
    Dreamer Deceiver: 6 bolts, chain anchors
• 5.13a
  • Slab Wall:
    Turbo Trad: 8 bolts, anchors
  • The Franks:
    Beavis: 5 bolts, anchors
  • Red Light District:
    Radio Flyer: 4 bolts, chain anchors
• 5.13b
  • Slab Wall:
    Fall from Grace: 6 bolts, anchors
    Slab City: 9 bolts, anchors
  • The Franks:
    Entertaining Mike Tyson: 4 bolts, anchors
• 5.13c
  • Far Side:
    Tigers on Vaseline: 5 bolts, chain anchors
• 5.13d
  • Slab Wall:
    Snake Dance: 7 bolts, anchors
• 5.14b
  • The Franks:
    Sick Man: 4 bolts, quicklock anchors
    Wooden Jesus: 6 bolts, chain anchors